Economía circular en la industria de la moda: Pilares básicos del modelo
Resumen
El tradicional modelo de producción lineal aplicado en la industria de la moda, basado en extraer, producir y desperdiciar, trajo consigo serias consecuencias negativas en el plano medioambiental, económico y social. Como desafío surge el denominado movimiento slow fashion, con el objetivo último de introducir la sostenibilidad en el sector textil. De este modo, se inicia la transición hacia la implementación de un modelo de economía circular que implica cambios sustanciales, tanto del lado de los oferentes como de los demandantes. El objetivo de este trabajo es desarrollar los pilares básicos en los que se sustenta el modelo alternativo de economía circular. Los resultados evidencian que el uso de fibras textiles sostenibles, la utilización de fuentes de energía renovables, el alargamiento del período de utilización de las prendas y una adecuada gestión de los residuos generados constituyen los cuatro pilares de este nuevo modelo. Entre las conclusiones se subraya el gran impulso que para la implantación del mismo puede suponer la actual preocupación de las autoridades públicas por el cumplimiento de los Objetivos de Desarrollo Sostenible de la Agenda 2030 de Naciones Unidas. Asimismo, para que este modelo prospere es imprescindible un programa educativo integrado para consumidores e industria.
Descargas
Citas
Arias, F. G. (2012). El proyecto de investigación. Introducción a la metodología científica. Editorial Espíteme.
Cambridge Dictionary (2021). carbon budget. https://dictionary.cambridge.org/es/diccionario/ingles/carbon-budget
Cerdá, E. y Khalilova, A. (2016). Economía circular. Economía Industrial, (401), 11-20.
Christopher, M., Lowson, R., y Peck, H. (2004). Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 32(8), 367-376. https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550410546188
Clark, H. (2008). SLOW + FASHION—an oxymoron—or a promise for the future…? Fashion Theory, 12(4), 427-446. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X346922
Common Objetive (2018). Made-By Environmental Benchmark for Fibres. Common Objetive. https://www.commonobjective.co/article/made-by-environmental-benchmark-for-fibres
Debnath, S. (2016). Pineapple leaf fibre–a sustainable luxury and industrial textiles. En M. A. Gardetti y S. S. Muthu (Eds), Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, environmental footprints and eco-design (pp. 35-49). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-742-0_3
DeOreo, W. B., Mayer, P., Dziegielwski, B., y Kiefer, J. (2016). Residential end uses of water, Version 2. Executive Report. Water Research Foundation. https://www.circleofblue.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/WRF_REU2016.pdf
Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) y Circular Fibres Initiative (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. EMF. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report_Updated_1-12-17.pdf
European Environment Agency - EEA (2019). Preventing plastic waste in Europe. Informe 2/2019. EEA. https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/preventing-plastic-waste-in-europe
European Topic Centres/ Waste and Materials in Green Economy - ETC/WMGE (2019). Textiles and the environment in a circular economy. ETC/WMGE. https://www.eionet.europa.eu/etcs/etc-wmge/products/etc-reports/textiles-and-the-environment-in-a-circular-economy
Fashion for Good (2020). C2C CertifiedTM “How-to” guide: Renewable energy and carbon management. Fashion for Good. https://fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/03_Renewable-Energy1.pdf
Fashion Pact (2019). Portal Fashion Pact. https://thefashionpact.org/?lang=en
Fletcher, K. (1st june 2007). Slow fashion. The Ecologist. https://theecologist.org/2007/jun/01/slow-fashion
Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259- 265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
Fletcher, K. (2012). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. Routledge.
Fletcher, K. (2018). The fashion land ethic: Localism, clothing activity, and macclesfield. Fashion Practice, 10(2), 139-159. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2018.1458495
Gillilan, S., Werner, C. M., Olson, L., y Adams, D. (1996). Teaching the concept of precycling: A campaign and evaluation. Journal of Environmental Education, 28(1), 11-18. https://doi.org/10.1080/00958964.1996.9942810
Heike, J. (2015). Fashioning memory: Vintage style and youth culture. Bloomsbury Academic.
Huitema, J. (29 de diciembre de 2020). El impacto de la producción textil y de los residuos en el medioambiente. Noticias Parlamento Europeo. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/es/headlines/society/20201208STO93327/el-impacto-de-la-produccion-textil-y-de-los-residuos-en-el-medio-ambiente
Interreg Central Europe (2019). Strategic agenda on textile waste management and recycling. Interreg Central Europe. https://www.interreg-central.eu/Content.Node/Stategic-Agenda.pdf
Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., y Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273-295. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174112X13340749707123
Jung, S., y Jin, B. (2016a). Sustainable development of slow fashion businesses: Customer value approach. Sustainability, 8(6), 540. https://doi.org/10.3390/su8060540
Jung, S., y Jin, B. (2016b). From quantity to quality: Understanding slow fashion consumers for sustainability and consumer education. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 40(4), 410-421. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12276
Larios, R. (2019). El reto de la sostenibilidad en la industria textil y de la moda. Mundo Textil, (159), 36-40.
McDonough, W., y Braungart, M. (2002). Cradle to cradle: Remaking the way we make things. North Point Press.
Moorhouse, D., y Moorhouse, D. (2017). Sustainable design: Circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1948-S1959. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713
Niinimäki, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion: New approaches. Aalto University Learning Centre.
Oblitas, J. F., Sangay, M. E., Rojas, E. E., y Castro, W. M. (2019). Economía circular en residuos de aparatos eléctricos y electrónicos. Revista de Ciencias Sociales (Ve), XXV(4), 196-208.
Ormaza, J., Ochoa, J., Ramírez, F. y Quevedo, J. (2020). Responsabilidad social empresarial en el Ecuador: Abordaje desde la Agenda 2030. Revista de Ciencias Sociales (Ve), XXVI(3), 175-193. https://doi.org/10.31876/rcs.v26i3.33241
Ozdamar, Z., y Atik, D. (2015). Sustainable markets: Motivating factors, barriers, and remedies for mobilization of slow fashion. Journal of Macromarketing, 35(1), 53-69. https://doi.org/10.1177%2F0276146714535932
Paras, M. K., y Curteza, A. (2018). Revisiting upcycling phenomena: a concept in clothing industry. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 22(1), 46-58. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-03-2017-0011
Pearce, D. W., y Turner, R. K. (1990). Economics of natural resources and the environment. Johns Hopkins University.
Pookulangara, S., y Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions—An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20(2), 200-206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
Preston, F. (2012). A global redesign? Shaping the circular economy. Briefing Paper. Chatham House. https://www.chathamhouse.org/2012/03/global-redesign-shaping-circular-economy
Ræbild, U., y Bang, A. L. (2017). Rethinking the fashion collection as a design strategic tool in a circular economy. The Design Journal, 20(S-1), S589-S599. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1353007
Rathnayake, I., Karunasena, G., y Rathnayake, U. (12th to 15th December 2014). Zero waste management in textile and apparel industry: Preliminary study [Presentation on paper]. 5th International Conference on Sustainable Built Environment, Kandy, Sri Lanka.
Retamozo, E., y Bengoa, G. (2016). Producción y sustentabilidad en Argentina: Estrategias en diseño de indumentaria. Investigación+ Acción, (18), 77-106.
Salcedo, E. (2014). Moda ética para un futuro sostenible. Editorial Gustavo Gili.
Sanches, R. A., Marcicano, J. P. P., De Held, M. S. B., Guimarães, B. M. G., Alonso, R. S., Takamune, K. M., Duarte, A. Y. S., y Dedini, F. G. (2015). Organic cotton, lyocell and SPF: A comparative study. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 27(5), 692-704. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-07-2014-0090
Smith, P., Baille, J., y McHattie, L-S. (2017). Sustainable design futures: An open design vision for the circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(S-1), S1938-S1947. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352712
Soler, J., y Ruano, M. (2012). Ecoconsciencia: Hacia el concepto de moda sostenible. Abre El Ojo (IED Madrid), (19), 165-167.
Sustain Your Style (2020). Impacto medioambiental de las fibras. https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/es/clasificacion-de-las-fibras
Textile Exchange (December 16, 2019). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2019. Textile Exchange. https://www.textiletechnology.net/technology/news/Textile-Exchange-Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report-2019-19288
United Nations Economic Commission for Europe - UNECE (2018). UN Forum says Fashion Industry an Environmental Emergency. UNECE. https://unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/timber/meetings/2018/20180301/WWD_Article_-_Regional_Forum_on_Sustainable_Development.pdf
Waste y Resources Action Programme - WRAP (2019). Fibre to fibre recycling: An economic & financial sustainability assessment. WRAP. http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/fibre-fibre-recycling-economic-financial-sustainability-assessment
Weber, S., Lynes, J., y Young, S. B. (2017). Fashion interest as a driver for consumer textile waste management: reuse, recycle or disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 41(2), 207-215. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12328
Wolf, O., Kougoulis, I., Cordella, M., y Dodd, N. (Eds.) (2014). Environmental improvement potential of textiles (IMPRO-textiles). Oficina de la Unión Europea. https://ec.europa.eu/jrc/en/publication/eur-scientific-and-technical-research-reports/environmental-improvement-potential-textiles-impro-textiles
Young, J., Halter, H., Johnson, K. K. P., y Ju, H. (2013). Investigating fashion disposition with young consumers. Young Consumers: Insight and Ideas for Responsible Marketers, 14(1), 67-78. https://doi.org/10.1108/17473611311305494
Yun, C., Patwary, S., LeHew, M. L. A., y Kim, J. (2017). Sustainable care of textile products and its environmental impact: Tumble-drying and ironing processes. Fibers and Polymers, 18(3), 590-596. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-017-6957-6
Esta obra está bajo licencia internacional Creative Commons Reconocimiento-NoComercial-CompartirIgual 4.0.